Part of that comes down to footwork, but if you buy this shoe, you will be able to resole it and it will retain its structure through that resole. At the same time, if your project requires a friction toe-hook, a shoe with hooking rubber will fair you better.įinally, it is durable and it does not delaminate. While the shoe is stiff, it is also pliant enough to hook. That little knuckle bump at the forefront of the shoe creates space for the foot to hunker behind. With that said, the softer upper allows for a degree of control on arete hooks. Naturally, this is not the best toe-hooking shoe in the world. Only the Theory approaches a similar level of control. It is possibly the best heel in the La Sportiva range. If you need to improve your heel hooking, this shoe offers a great platform to learn, as it does most of the work for you. This shoe not only cams well because of the heel, but it gets behind thin hooks well, and holds them easily. In that vein, the heel cup itself offers a superior hooking solution to boulder problems and sport routes. Over the entire time of testing, there was not a single heel hook that required more tension than the fast-lacing loops. You can also thread your laces through two eyelets at the top of the tongue for greater tension and heel security. This reduces the pressure on the foot as the laces tighten to give a secure fit. These laces rest on a breathable tongue over the forefoot.
The Testarossa is a bit of a hassle to get in and out of, but the new Katana Lace goes on and off in a flash. It is worth noting that the break in period will be a little longer than with the older model, so give it a chance to soften on your crystal heavy project.įrom a comfort standpoint, the fast-lacing design of the shoe is difficult to beat. On Squamish slab, the old Katana dominated. The XS-Edge supports the climber through their ascent, allowing for control on small edges and crystals. The Testarossa only out climbs the Katana on very steep sport climbs. The shoe responds consistently to pressure, making even the trickiest foot sequences feel a little less nerve wracking.įor hard sport and trad climbing, the Katana Lace outcompetes the Miura and Testarossa. Its strong bouldering performance places a point at the tip of the shoe that lets the climber trust their movement.
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